In the far north of Pakistan lies Chitral, a region famous for its stunning landscapes and timeless charm. But for those who venture beyond its beaten path, a secret awaits: Ayun Valley, the heart of Chitral and a living tapestry of history, culture and natural beauty.
Reaching Ayun is an adventure in itself. An eight-hour drive from Rawalpindi along scenic highways brings you to the Lowari Tunnel. From there, it’s a two-hour journey into a world where sparkling springs, towering mountains and lush orchards create a peaceful haven that seems untouched by time.
But Ayun is much more than just a picturesque valley: it is a gateway to the mystical Kalash region and a treasure trove of stories waiting to be discovered.
As you approach Ayun, the sight of small houses scattered along the slopes of the Hindu Kush mountains greets you. The road winds through towering peaks and while the journey can seem daunting, especially under the veil of night, it has a magic all its own.
The darkness sparkles with starlight, the kind that makes you pause, breathe, and marvel at the romance of nature’s quiet grandeur.
At the heart of this valley stands Ayun Fort, a centuries-old relic that whispers of Chitral’s royal past. Once a stronghold of power and tradition, the fort is now a guesthouse where history comes to life for curious travelers. Its wooden beams, grand rooms, and serene courtyards tell the story of a family whose lineage shaped the destiny of the region.
From Herat to Chitral: the legacy of leaders
Shuja-ul-Mulk, the last ruler of Chitral, entrusted the lands of Ayun, known as Balawasht, to his youngest son. However, for the past few days, his grandson, Maqsood ul Mulk and his son Ammar-ul-Mulk, have been the guardians of this historical monument.
Together, they transformed Ayun Fort into a space that not only preserves their family’s heritage, but also invites tourists to experience it.
In an exclusive conversation, Maqsood shares the incredible history of the fort. “Our family ruled Chitral for centuries before the creation of Pakistan,” he says, his voice tinged with pride. “Our roots go back to Amir Timur, who traveled from Herat to Chitral, married into the local community and spent his life here. This fort and the valley it overlooks are part of that heritage, passed down through generations in generation, including my father, who inherited the lands of Ayun as part of this timeless legacy.
Maqsood shared more about the rich history of the region, explaining that before the creation of Pakistan, the land was home to many small princely states, Chitral being one of them.
“Our family’s heritage is closely linked to this region,” he explained. “Here you will find several administrative and royal forts related to my family members. Initially, my family lived in the Grand Chitral fort, where my father got married. In 1920, he moved to this fort in the valley of ‘Ayun with my mother, charged with the responsibility of settling this land and maintaining the community here.
Folklore of Tirich Mir: tales of fairies and jinns
The fort also offers a spectacular view of Tirich Mir, the highest peak in the Hindu Kush mountain range, rising to 7,708 meters above sea level.
This majestic peak, first climbed by a Norwegian mountaineer in 1950, is steeped in local folklore, with stories of fairies and jinn said to reside at its peak.
For the more adventurous, reaching Tirich Mir base camp from Ayun can take over eight hours, but the journey is unforgettable beauty.
The oldest and largest trees in Countess of Ross and Ayun Fort
The fort’s garden is another testament to the region’s charm, home to some of the tallest and oldest trees in the world. Among these is a giant sequoia, a gift from the Countess of Ross, a family friend living in Ireland. Maqsood noted: “These trees are legendary in California, where they grow so large that tunnels are dug through them, allowing cars to pass through. Although the redwood here is still young, it is growing well and will eventually become just as magnificent.
Maqsood shared another fascinating story, revealing that her friend, Countess of Ross, owns a castle in Ireland with a sprawling 22-acre garden, a small part of which she dedicated to ‘Chitral’.
This unique friendship often views the exchange of rare trees as gifts, connecting their worlds through nature.
Among the botanical treasures of Ayun Fort is the Ginkgo Biloba, considered one of the oldest tree species in the world. Legend has it that soaking its leaves in water and drinking them would improve longevity – a belief that adds a mystical charm to this ancient tree.
Another gem of the garden is the weeping willow, locally known as Baid-e-Majnoon in Persian.
Maqsood reflects on its intriguing history: “The British called it the weeping willow, associating it with sorrow, while Persian culture romantically compared its drooping branches to the locks of Majnoon, the famous lover. It’s all a question of perspective. »
In Chitral, these willows are abundant and some are so massive that their branches extend far across the ground, creating an enchanting and surreal landscape.
Honoring the Past: The Crown and the Nation
The century-old structure, now a charming guesthouse, was once a formidable fort, housing 80 residents and serving as temporary shelter for travelers. Surrounded by high walls, it bears witness to its time. However, in 2002 the walls were demolished.
When Digital Geo Asked Ammar-ul-Mulk about this decision, he explained: “This region is seismically active and quite dangerous. The mud walls of the fort had weakened over time and we feared they might collapse. To ensure the safety of our guests and allow them to fully enjoy the natural beauty that surrounds the fort, we have decided to demolish the walls.”
Today, the guest house has six rooms, retaining much of the original craftsmanship in its wooden beams and stone carvings, hallmarks of Chitral’s rich cultural heritage.
Ammar added: “We have retained most of the old pillars and decors to keep the past alive in our present. During a dig here, we discovered two antique pots that now adorn our dining room. The glass panel above the dining table reflects the mountains, providing stunning views even when you’re indoors. Wherever you look, you are surrounded by the grandeur of the peaks.
Speaking about their family’s ties to Pakistan, Ammar and his father expressed pride in their ancestors’ decision to join the nation.
“It was the insistence and efforts of Quaid-e-Azam that convinced our family to become part of Pakistan. We are extremely proud of this decision because, had it not been taken, this region could have been part of Afghanistan today, with its population enduring much more difficult circumstances.
As you explore Ayun Fort, it’s impossible not to feel the weight of history around you. The fort is a living testament to resilience, its walls imbued with memories of a royal past. Outside, the valley stretches out in all its glory, with bright green fields, gushing streams, and ever-present mountains standing guard.